Clean vs. Dirty: The Two Faces of Natural Wine

The natural wine movement has revolutionised the way we think about wine, inviting us to reconsider the role of viticulture and winemaking in crafting the perfect bottle. By eschewing additives, pesticides, and heavy manipulation, natural wines focus on letting the land and the grapes express themselves authentically. In recent years, a plethora of natural wine shops and bars have appeared in Singapore, reflecting the increasing interest and appreciation for this genre. However, conversations with customers and wine enthusiasts reveal a bit of confusion about what to actually expect from a natural wine.

While natural wines began gaining popularity in the early 2000s, their origins trace back much further. The movement was initially sparked in mid-20th-century France, particularly in the Beaujolais region, where winemakers like Jules Chauvet advocated for minimal-intervention winemaking. By the 1990s, natural wine was beginning to make waves in Parisian wine bars, driven by a small but dedicated group of producers and importers.

As we entered the 2010s, the natural wine scene exploded globally. Beyond France, countries like Italy, Spain, the US, Australia, and more began to embrace natural winemaking techniques. The rise of farm-to-table dining, interest in organic and biodynamic farming, and a rejection of overly processed, mass-market products all contributed to natural wine’s growing popularity. Today, the movement has become a major force in the wine world, with festivals, retailers, and wine bars dedicated to the cause.

As more winemakers—many of whom come from non-traditional backgrounds—experiment with natural wine production, two distinct styles have emerged: clean and dirty winemaking. Each represents a different philosophy, offering unique experiences for the adventurous drinker.

Clean Style: The Elegance of Purity

Clean natural wines are all about balance and precision, embracing minimal intervention while striving to maintain a clear, refined expression of the grape. These wines are carefully fermented and aged, avoiding any overpowering faults while ensuring freshness and clarity. The aim is to let the grape's natural character shine without the distraction of excessive oxidation, volatile acidity, or undesirable microbial influence.

Producers like Marcel Lapierre in Morgon (Beaujolais, France) craft wines that are elegant and fresh, with vibrant notes of red berries and delicate florals. In Italy’s Veneto region, Nevio Scala’s mineral-driven wines offer a beautifully clear expression of the terroir, while Spain’s Envínate harnesses volcanic landscapes to create structured, fruit-driven wines. Other producers, such as Lucy Margaux in Australia and Pierre Frick in Alsace, achieve balance through minimal sulphur use, bringing out the purity of the fruit without compromising on expression.

Dirty Style: Embracing Wildness

On the opposite end of the spectrum, dirty natural wines revel in their unpredictability. These wines often carry funky aromas, oxidative qualities, and microbial influences that create flavours that range from barnyard earthiness to nutty, oxidative notes. While some wine drinkers embrace the raw, unfiltered nature of these wines, others find them challenging.

In Spain, Mendall Wines by legendary natural winemaker Laureano Serres Montagut offers rustic, raw reds and whites with oxidative characteristics, while Austria’s Gut Oggau celebrates cloudy, unfiltered wines that embrace complex, untamed flavours. Experimental producers like La Sorga in Languedoc and Patrice Beguet in Jura push the limits of what wine can be, with wines that showcase bold, oxidative, and wild characteristics.

Dirty: A Flaw or a Characteristic?

The debate surrounding “dirty” or “funky” flavours in natural wine can be polarising. Some consider these characteristics to be flaws, particularly if the wine exhibits off-putting aromas of barnyard, mustiness, or even “poopy” notes. These traits may stem from oxidation, volatile acidity, or uncontrolled microbial activity—elements that many traditional winemakers aim to avoid. For those used to cleaner, fruit-forward wines, the wildness of dirty natural wines can be an overwhelming experience.

However, many natural winemakers and enthusiasts embrace these unconventional flavours. The lack of additives and interventions allows native yeasts and bacteria to ferment the grapes, resulting in wines with unique and complex flavours that some find deeply compelling. These flavours can be a direct reflection of the terroir, with the wine capturing the essence of its environment—soil, climate, and all. In fact, some winemakers even welcome Brettanomyces, a yeast that imparts barnyard or horsey notes, as an essential part of the wine’s identity.

Ultimately, whether you view a “dirty” or “funky” flavour as a flaw or a characteristic comes down to personal taste. Some love the vibrancy and elegance of clean wines, while others seek the untamed energy of the funkier bottles. The beauty of the natural wine world lies in its diversity—whether you’re drawn to the clarity and precision of clean wines or the raw, experimental nature of dirty wines, there’s something here for everyone.

One thing remains certain: natural wine continues to push boundaries, challenge traditions, and bring new dimensions to the glass. To embark on your natural wine journey, check out our curated selection of natural wines!